Saturday, September 29, 2007

Hello Muddah, Hello Faddah

Dear Mom and Dad,

I know nearly three more months will pass before I see you in Riga, but I also know how you like to plan ahead, Mom, and so I wanted to give you a few things to think about. You always say that "this trip" you plan to pack lighter. Well, this trip you really can. As you can see, underwear is not in short supply here. It comes in all shapes, sizes, colors, and fabrics. Also, leave your hair supplies at home. While you're in Latvia, you can experiment and see if blonds really do have more fun.




And, Dad, on my morning jog, I stopped in a place on the corner. The signs said "Fenikss" and "Bars". Since the place is so close to my flat, I thought it could be the perfect place for us to exercise. Turns out, "Fenikss" has nothing to with "fitness," though. The blinking lights and ringing slot machines inside proved it. And, you can guess that "Bars" has nothing to do with barbells. So, maybe no reason to bring your tennis shoes. Your cash will be more useful.

Keep the home fires burning. I'll be making all of the necessary preparations here.

Can't wait to see you!

Love,
Tim

PS-The package arrived today. Thanks for everything!

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Alma Mater

Dear Friends,

Yesterday afternoon as I was out meandering through the streets of Riga, you'll never guess what I found. This building, that looks so much like Sturtevant Hall! Just see for yourself...

Okay, you enterprising readers, I know you're much too clever to believe me.

But, I did see Sturtevant Hall yesterday... on my computer screen in my classroom. The curriculum of my International Baccalaureate course calls for an examination of various school systems. Using the "Bon Voyage" CD of images graciously sent with me from the Alumni Office -- thanks again, Pam! -- I was able to incorporate a number of Illinois College shots into my presentation.

So, Admissions Office, expect an influx of Latvians in the student body beginning in the 2010-2011 school year.


We shall not cease from exploration,
And the end of all our exploring
Will be to arrive where we started
And know the place for the first time.
-T. S. Eliot


Every artist dips his brush in his own soul,
and paints his own nature into his pictures.
-Henry Ward Beecher, brother of Edward Beecher, first president of Illinois College



We have an unknown distance yet to run,
an unknown river to explore.
What falls there are,
we know not;
what rocks beset the channel,
we know not;
what walls ride over the river,
we know not.
-John Wesley Powell, Illinois College alumus



Praising God for the beauty here... Praising God for the beauty of home...
Your True Blueboy,
Tim


PS-Those of you out there in bloggerland who may be thinking about where to go to college (or those of you wishing you could go back to college), check out http://www.ic.edu/ for more about Illinois College. When it comes to liberal arts, IC is the oldest and best in the Midwest... and beyond!*

*The writer fully acknowledges the shameless advertising tactic used above which does not necessarily fit the aforementioned purpose of this on-line journal... but hey, let the boy in Latvia revel in this moment of unabashed pride for his Alma Mater, would ya?

Monday, September 24, 2007

Face the Music

There may be trouble ahead,

But while there's music and moonlight,

And love and romance,

Let's face the music and dance.

Dear Friends,

I can't prove that Irving Berlin had Riga in mind when he penned those eminent lyrics in 1932, but if Rigans were singing and playing music as much then as they are now, he certainly could have. The personal awareness of my insatiable appetite for music is nothing new to me. My father very wisely put a cap on my CD-purchasing during my teenage years, and Dad, I still heed your advice most of the time. As many of you know, Jacksonville is a great place for a music lover to be, in fact. You don't have to wait too many weeks until the next fine McGaw show comes to town or the high schools and colleges offer a concert or production. Jacksonville may be the musical balm in midwestern Gilead, but, for the first time, here in Riga, I'm in a city that entices me with something musical around every corner. Every venue is nearby and tickets range in price between 5 and 10 Lats ($10-20). Thus far, my plate has been filled and my palate has been extremely satisfied.

Shakespeare understood this kind of hunger. If music be the food of love, play on.

I'd love to share with you brief descriptions of some of the music I've faced this past week, beginning with Shakespeare, in fact. Saturday night, my fellow expat (albeit Czech) Ali and I ventured to The Museum of Riga History and Navigation to take in an evening of "Shakespeare's Poetry in Music." The concert took place in a small ballroom of sorts. Old maps adorned the walls, and a second-story observance area wound around the rim of the room. The first half of the concert we faced north and enjoyed the sounds of a harpsichord among other instruments. The second half of the concert, facing south, however, brought about the world premiere of "Midsummer Night's Dreams after William Shakespeare" by a Latvian composer in the audience that evening. The avant garde performance was stirring and evocative, but didn't take itself too seriously, as demonstrated by the percussionist's playing of paper -- yes, paper. Amazing what the sounds of syncopated paper-ripping and quill-scribbling can contribute to an ensemble! The end of the piece found the players exiting the floor while sustaining a note on their respective instruments and randomly whispering a Shakespearean line or two. Hey, if Shakespeare's characters can be turned into asses on stage, why not? I think Nick Bottom would be pleased with the innovation.

Tuesday night, at the last minute, I wandered into the Riga Small Guild (or Maza gilde) to check out a trio's renderings of Mozart's and Brahms's Chamber Music. The music was wonderful, of course, but my foremost memories of that night are unrelated to the music. After sitting down in the front row, I immediately heard American voices behind me... two couples. I consciously listened to them chat the way Americans chat and (silly as it may sound) it occurred to me that they have no idea that I too speak English. In fact, being a member in a crowd in Europe is kind of like being a chocolate in a box; one never knows the inside of someone until communication is attempted. After a few moments, I turned around to the couples -- what can I say, their bantering felt so familiar and enticing and I'm not shy -- and, true to American form, after a good ten minutes, I knew all about their jobs and children and they knew all about mine. Well, my job, that is. (I didn't bring up the children.) On a five week tour of the Baltics and Russia, one of the men said, "We just wanted to go somewhere different." Perhaps Rome and Paris have become cliche.

The other vivid memory of that night has to do with the flowers. At the end of the performance, each player could hardly contain his/her instrument because of the meticulous task of trying to balance bushels of flowers given my people in the audience. If Americans like their Big Macs and Cruise Nights, 'tis true that Latvians love their music and flowers!


Definitely the most memorable musical evening, however, was Friday when I accepted a last-minute invitation to attend the opera (my first opera) Turandot by Puccini in the exquisite and stately National Opera House. (This particular opera was first performed in Riga in 1930.) I had been warned that people tend to take in their operas fully dressed in their finest. So, stepping into the main lobby wearing my black suit and tie, I was met by a white-gloved doorman and a host of tuxedo-clad attendants. And that was just the foyer. Inside the ornate theater itself, I was overcome by the magnitude of the chandelier. And that was just the lighting. The performance was tremendous -- and much to my delight, I was able to bask in the live rendering of the famous baritone aria "Nessun dorma". Even though the libretto offered the audience texts in both Latvian and English, my ears predominantly held sway over my eyes.

And that was just the performance.

An English-teaching colleague of mine had invited me to the opera when one of her cousins was unable to attend. Ieva is Latvian, but fled with her family to the United States via Germany when she was a girl. She spends the second semester of her year teaching ESL at Rice University. She emanates an enticing professorial sagacity; I leave her company feeling enlightened and informed. Saturday evening she brought me a beginner's book to Latvian Language -- designed for first-graders, that is non-Latvian first-graders! The level suits me perfectly.

Well, the third person in our party that evening was Ieva's first cousin, Andy, from Canada. The two of them had met each other for the first time this month when Andy decided to glean a first-hand account of his parents' homeland. (Turns out, there are a lot of people reconstructing their families after years of widespread Latvian diaspora.) The two -- really perfect strangers to one another -- were incredible company and welcomed me with open arms. Prior to the show, they had placed their orders for intermission beverages and dessert and had reserved a small table with an impressive view of the gardens in front of the Opera House. They asked me to join them, and I gladly obliged, but by the time I arrived with my chocolate cake and glass of champagne and a few snapshots had been taken, the bells indicating the commencement of the third act began to chime. Ieva took a good look at me and my full glass of champagne and said, "Well?" I had little choice but to chug. Laughing, she said, "Ah-hah, so this is the type of guy Fulbright sends us!" I cordially agreed... but neglected to mention my homey love of racing crabs at Don's Place from time to time.

Leaving Ieva and Andy after the show, I crossed the bridge in the central park. The night was warm and my black rain jacket was slung over my arm. Latvians, like Americans and all people I suppose, have many traditions. On the day a couple weds, the bride and groom are to cross seven bridges. As a token of their newfound love, on one bridge, they leave their mark by locking an engraved padlock to it, giving the bridge a kind of Victorian-era-meets-chain-gang feel. I glanced at the hundreds of moonlit, shimmering locks on this bridge over the canal and remembered my favorite line from the opera (dressed in English, of course): "I have traveled for so long with you in my heart."

It was one of those mystical nights where music had unlocked my heart to an extent.

I hope trouble stays far ahead of you, my friends. And as you sing in the choir or shower, face your tune a little surer knowing I am a traveler who is holding you close in his heart.

Yours,
Tim

PS-As for the "dancing," well, there have been some attempts at salsa, but I shall save those stories for another time.

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Epistofied

Dear Grandma,

Greetings from Riga!
I want you to know you made my day last Tuesday. When I got home from school, I opened my mailbox and found a package. I didn't even have to look at the name; from the writing alone, I could tell the envelop was from you. Do you think you're the first lady from Chapin ever to send a package to Riga?!
I dashed up the stairs, Grandma, like a ten-year-old version of myself on Christmas morning. With reckless abandon, using a knife from the kitchen, I swiftly yet cautiously slid open the envelop, and there inside a found a small collection of treasures. Thank you so much for the photos -- they took me back to the immense happiness of the Wedding this summer and of your special day riding as Parade Marshal in the Chapin Big Country Days parade. I especially liked your notations on the backs of the pictures! The Daily Devotional will encourage me all the way through Christmas. As I read it of a morning, I'll think of you reading it before bed.
Best of all, though, Grandma, was your letter -- two papers, front and back, covered with the writing of Love. Tuesday afternoon was already sunny, but when I began to read your words, the sun shone that much brighter. The bucolic tranquility of your home, the busyness of your baking -- oh, I miss your pies! -- and the news about our family made me feel as if I were just down the highway from you.
I've received a lot of e-mails here, a few instant messages and just a few phone calls, each of which has been wonderful in its own right. Folks back home have been so good to stay in touch. But, there was something about seeing your impeccable penmanship, holding the yellow legal pad leaflets in my hands that... I don't know, made me feel closer and more connected than I've felt thus far. Your words traveled from your heart through your hand, Grandma, and the love you bound and mailed from the Chapin Post Office on Superior assuredly comes straight from God.
Well, after reading your letter, I felt so enthused. I had a few errands to run -- to the market, the post office -- so not wasting anytime, I set your letter down, picked up my keys and bound down the stairs as quickly as I had come up them. You see, my heart was buoyant. So, Grandma, I stepped through my door, leapt over a puddle or two, and waltzed proudly into that Baltic sunlight. I smiled thinking about you, and the honor it is to be your grandson, and without a doubt in my mind, headed in the exact opposite of the direction I needed to go!
Lost in my thoughts, it only took a few blocks until I realized I needed to turn around to get where I was going. So, with the radiant light still blazing from above, I turned myself around, examined the street signs and confidently headed off again. In the wrong direction.
Don't you worry, though, Grandma. I eventually found my way. And, rest assured, my errors in judgement were good, strong errors -- not minute, sissy ones! These were the kind of mistakes you'd be proud of! I was lost and not ashamed! One of things you've modeled for your family over the years, Grandma, is while there may be plenty in life to avoid, charity, grace, and faith are not among them. Those ought to be embraced and done up big -- big enough to cover up our tracks down the wrong road. Big enough to welcome each other back home. Big enough to ensure "lost" is only a temporary variation of "found".
Couple weeks ago, I assigned one of my classes the task of writing their own grandmothers. You see, we were discussing how to write informal letters, and as I thought on the subject, you naturally came to mind as one who still practices the art of epistolary writing and does it well.
My students' final outcomes were awe-inspiring, and I wanted to share a few of their lines with you. Like me, you may be amazed by their sincerity and craftsmanship... and the similarities.
"Thank you for your interesting letter. I also enjoyed the two weeks I spent with you in that beautiful countryside house of yours. John was so jealous when I showed him the pictures. I'll never forget those days. In fact, I wish I could be there now."
"I hope to visit you next week and that you'll make your special sausage rolls, which I really like. If you need anything from Riga, just tell. I'm waiting for your answer."
"Oh, I almost forgot, Grandma -- I wanted to ask you -- could you please knit me a pair of socks again? The pair that you gave me last Christmas was great, but I have lost them unfortunately."
"I can't wait to hear another one of your stories -- they are so funny!"
"I know that you are very busy during autumn and that there's a lot of granny-stuff going on now, but I'm completely sure that you'll manage to find time for a response."
"The decrease in numbers of apples in my yard tells me you were here. If so, too bad we didn't see each other, but thanks for taking the apples! Autumn is slowly taking over summer in my garden..."
"We have many new teachers and they really look and sound like nice people. My previous experience proves that all teachers are like that in the start..."
"You sure can cook! Anxiously waiting to taste your famous (at least to me) fried chicken with garlic. Can't wait till dinner, Grandma!"
"I'm sorry for not writing for so long, but it's because I don't usually write letters -- I use e-mail, but you don't know how to use a computer."
"We have this new English teacher, Tim. I like the way he talks and I'm learning a lot from that. I just know my English will improve this term. By the way, he has a grandma too and you two have a lot in common. Isn't that funny?"
"Last but not least, remember that I miss you, Grandma! I can't wait to go visiting you sometime when I'll have fewer things to do for school. I can't wait to have your delicious pancakes for breakfast!"
Thanks again for the letter, Grandma. Let me know when you receive mine.
Love, your grandson,
Tim
PS-Don't send all the leftovers home with Dad!

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Trash, and Other Domestic Nuances

Dear Friends,

On the average, how many times a day do you think about your trash? Okay, silly question. I never thought much about it either until, after about a week in Riga, it occurred to me that I needed to do something with the trash bag in my kitchen. I had kept my eyes open for dumpsters in the courtyard, but had found none. I had been meaning to ask Inga what to do but simply hadn't remembered. Luckily, one day she remembered to tell me.

"Oh, Teem, I've been meaning to tell you about your trash," she said. "On all days except Monday, you may take your trash out to the sidewalk at 7:30 in the morning or 6:30 in the evening."

"Oh, okay. So I just leave it there?"

"No, you wait with it."

I paused, wait with the trash?

Inga read me well. "Yes," she said, rolling her eyes and smiling. "You wait and it gets picked up by truck. There will be many people. You vill see."

In their book, The Englishman Abroad, Hugh and Pauline Massingham penned a profound point: "The ideal traveler, in fact, is not a man who goes out to teach, but a man who goes out to learn. He is a person who, in his most censorious moments ... can look at himself and realize he is equally funny." Preparing for this trip, I kept thinking of myself as the Teacher. All of my Fulbright documentation made mention of Teacher Exchange. The card in my pocket boasts the words "International Teacher" in 16-point font. The word Teacher has been embedded at the core of my identity for nearly six years now.

Funny, how little thought, all in all, I'd given to the forgettable hat packed in my suitcase bearing the name "Learner." Oh, I had no preconceived notions about changing the world or anything through my teaching. I'm painfully aware I don't know it all. My travels have taught me that America is not the end-all, be-all. I have been overly-sensitized to the knowledge that humility must serve as the foundation of all discourse and interaction. After all, I am and will always be a guest here. I understand the role of diplomat and play it fairly well.

What I didn't know is that door keys come in about eight different shapes and sizes... and at least twice as many personalities.

I didn't know that sometimes pigeons fly out of the entry halls of apartments (like mine) when the door has been left ajar. Pigeons fly out of anywhere, in fact, and a newspaper under one's arm begins to serve a purpose greater than solely being a source recounting the day's events.

I didn't know that leather shoes expand so much and so quickly from prolonged exposure to rain.

And, I didn't know that taking photos in the market is not always looked favorably upon by the locals.

Today after school, I decided to visit the market a block away from my home. I've been there at least four times already. The fresh fruit and baked goods are out of this world. Though the place is usually bustling with people, the workers in the stands I had visited had been nothing short of angelic. They seem to speak the language of Englat that I have been perfecting. I wanted
to capture a few photographic memories of the market, so I whisked my camera as subtly as I could over my shoulder. (Wouldn't want to look like a tourist who'd likely have his 35mm fastened to his belt buckle or somewhere obvious and intrusive like that!)

In the market, I walked toward my favorite fruit stand. Funny how quickly habits and routines are formed -- most quickly, perhaps, among the most basic and ordinary tasks of daily life, like food gathering. The women at the fruit stand had always been kind. Of all of the many fruit stands, I felt as if they truly enjoyed me patronizing theirs. Today, then, I stopped caddy corner of the stand and removed my camera. Turned it on, aimed, and fired. Memory good as made! Memory, suddenly, dashed by the sound of a gravelly holler. When I turned, I saw the words -- must have been Russian -- were coming from a boorish, unkempt old fellow who was emerging from the stand -- my stand. Taken aback, at first I thought (oh, what fools these mortals be! ) that maybe he was offering to take a picture of me in the stand.

Nope.

The fellow traipsed toward me. What I had read about Latvians being strict observers of personal space immediately trespassed right out of my mind. This guy was getting up-close and personal. He looked like Jack Nicholson emerging on a Sunday morning with a bad hang-over. Lots of whiskers. Pronounced deficit in the teeth department. The shouting carried on. Quick as an antelope about to be devoured by a lion, my senses informed me that today was not the day to shop at my favorite fruit stand. I offered a meager "sorry" and walked away. Jack continued to yell, mocking my "sorry" and offering an array of jumbled observations about "that United States of America."

Readers, believe me: I wasn't even wearing my red, white, and blue flag lapel pin.

According to travel expert and writer Craig Storti (whose regaling address to us Fulbrighters in DC will be long-remembered), this was the classic case of a Type I cultural incident, depicted as follows:

1. We expect other people to behave like we do, but they don't.

2. Thus, a cultural incident occurs.

3. We react (with anger, worry, etc.)

4. This causes us to try to avoid the local culture.

True, it's people like Fruit Bully Jack -- and I've brushed against a few like him, but only a few -- that make you want to slither home after work, cover up in bed with Tolstoy and a nice, warm cup of vodka. But staying in bed with Tolstoy is not for me. Plus, the orange hue of my bedroom walls and curtains would have me reeling in no time.

My apartment is really great -- and really bright. My friend told me about a classic old movie shown every New Years in Latvia about a Russian man who goes home to what he believes is his apartment in his city yet becomes outraged when a woman enters in. After finding a strange man in her apartment, an argument ensues over whose place it really is. The man is mistaken, but his transgressions must be forgiven since the woman's apartment, in fact, is exactly like his in a city that is exactly like his and on and on... Even the furniture is identical. The man simply took a wrong turn on the train. A classic case of Communism wreaking havoc on everything right down to the curtains.

My apartment, on the other hand, seems to be fairly unique. Orange bedroom. Yellow kitchen. No proof to support it, but I wonder if the painters or designers of this place dolled it up so brightly just because they could.

And the variety of improvements keeps getting better. Last week, Inga called to say she had a different TV for me -- one a size bigger. She wondered if she and her friend could deliver it that evening.

At the designated time, the pair arrived with new TV in tow. The man graciously set it up while Inga wrestled with the vexatious instruction manual. Getting frustrated, she muttered "Latvian and Russian, but no English, so..." She looked at me, as if to say, you're off the hook, Tim. Secretly, I rejoiced that my monolingual self would not have to bother with the process of installation.

After a short while, the pictures started coming through on the television. Remote in hand, Inga walked me through the channels. "Only two English channels," she said. "BBC and the music... but after midnight, old American movies come on. And then there's also the Adult entertainment. I don't know what language, but who really cares, right?" Her eyes twinkled.

If only I could switch languages at a given time like my TV.

Alas, as it turns out, waiting with one's garbage requires no language skills whatsoever.

I've been approaching my Trash Time differently lately. You see, I am a Learner.

I really believe good things can come from rubble. Wouldn't it be something if romance blossomed over last week's banana peels and pork rinds?

So, where did you meet her? The office? At a bar?

No, the sidewalk. Beside the bags.

Ah, yes. Was your first date over dinner?

Nope, over garbage.

Of course. So, is she your type?

Eh, well. A little trashy... but a great conversationalist.

She have some interesting hobbies?

Don't know, but she sure does have some exotic junk in her trunk.

You don't say! Good looking, huh?

Oh, yes! Great waste. And a sweet circular file.

So, she could really be the one?

Rubbish! You know I don't believe in love at first sight.

Pshh, another one of your disposable relationships...

Yours,
Tim

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Compendium: Blessings

Dear Friends,

This week, I'd like to "open the gate" and invite you to post a comment about blessings. Share your favorite blessing, or write one of your own. Maybe you have an anecdote about being blessed or receiving a special blessing. No matter what you select, should you wish to contribute, try to post your response by next Sunday.

A note about posting: my understanding is that you do not need to set up a new "google" e-mail account in order to post. Using your pre-established e-mail address should suffice. The password you use, of course, is up to you.

I'd like to share a blessing given to me by my unparagoned college professor and friend just before I left. (Thanks, Karen.)


Hold on to what is good even if it is a handful of earth.

Hold on to what you believe even if it is a tree which stands by itself.

Hold on to what you must do even if it is a long way from here.

Hold on to life even when it is easier letting go.

Hold on to my hand even when I have gone away from you.


-A Pueblo Blessing

Be blessed this week!

Yours,
Tim

Saturday, September 15, 2007

Rocket Man


Dear Friends,

Elton John played in Riga Arena last night; this was the most expensive performance event ever to take place in Riga. The arena, only a short distance from my flat, is newly constructed, and is most often used for hockey -- one of Latvia's most popular national pastimes.

My partner for the evening was Inga, my landlady, whom I met at 8:15. Inga, dressed in black and pearls, fled down her stairs with her friend to whom I was introduced. "I'm so excited," Inga said. "And we have had some wine to drink so I'm even more excited!"

Inga and I fetched a ride to the concert in another one of her tenant's, Edgar, new car. Edgar is a drummer in one of Latvia's premiere indy bands, and Inga later told me that when she met Edgar he had very little. So, in exchange for board, Edgar managed to renovate some of the flats in Inga's property, which she consistently refers to collectively as "our home."

The arena was bustling by the time we arrived. The atmosphere prior to the show felt very familiar -- patrons munching on nachos or drinking a beer, T-shirt salespersons peddling their wares, long lines to the women's restrooms, no lines to the men's -- but the crowd, as a whole, or at least the portion I saw, was dressed more formally than what I would have expected for such a concert. In my dark jeans and black sweater, I was on the casual end of the attire spectrum.

Walking in, I asked Inga what her favorite Elton John songs were. "Honky Cat," she stated without hesitation. At that moment, I knew we were in for a fun night.

After some searching inside, Inga and I managed to find our seats in the third floor. These tickets were 39 Lats a piece (so, $80). Standing room tickets on the floor cost 29 Lats, but for 200 Lats, you could join your friends in a second floor suite. This was Inga's first time to the Arena. "We are explorers!" she said proudly, with a smile.

"How nice of you to bring an old lady with you," she said. "My son, he would never do this. Geezus."

"It's the least I can do for you, after all of your kindness," I said.

"No, it is big."

I had been anticipating this night since arriving in Riga. Elton John is ubiquitous the world-over. In one car ride, with a few flips of the dial, you can find his music on the classic rock station, the adult contemporary, the Oldies station, and every once in a while, still, on Top Forty stations methodically churning out the flavors of the month. And that goes for the States and Latvia... and maybe a few other nations, too.

In the last few years, I'd been to shows of other long-standing, but aging, artists. Bob Dylan's unintelligible vocals were more forgettable to me than the clouds of strange smoke lingering over the audience. James Taylor comfortably carries on, riding the waves of his dated but superb repertoire. B.B. King most deservedly now sits through his shows. Amy Grant traded in her band (and shoes) for symphonies, and Randy Newman, whom I saw at the Vienna Opera House during the annual summer jazz festival in 2006, used only his voice and his piano to make music.

What kind of show would Elton put on? I wondered.

Suffice it to say, after seeing one, Elton does whatever kind of show Elton wants. Unlike the aforementioned artists, he has remained a viable force in the music industry. (He was the first Western artist to tour the Soviet Union and Israel.) While I have not been an avid follower or fan, anyone who pays a bit of attention and has ears knows that Elton John has continued to concoct hit songs consistently over the last four decades.

Furthermore, could any one of those other artists -- or even the menagerie of all of them -- sell out an arena in Riga, Latvia? Doubtful.

At 9:00, Elton's five-man band took the stage and commenced with an instrumental prelude. The sound reminded me a bit of Yanni, and I was unaffected. I did get a kick out of the band guys, though, assuredly fine musicians -- but each, well, older. A couple had double-chins, another was bone-thin. Each had some version of "old rocker" long hair. I couldn't help but think of the caricature depictions of aging British rockers in the films Love Actually and Hugh Grant's character in Music and Lyrics.

A few moments later, the Sir himself emerged. He was dressed as ... well, as Elton John. A long black jacket with embroidered ornamental designs. The back of this coat said something about "Las Vegas" and featured a minute Elton, standing upon a diamond, batting stars into the the sky. The thought of him playing baseball tickled me... especially in those shoes -- black hightops with glowing strips of yellow and red -- and blue-tinted sunglasses. Watching him sit behind the glimmering grand piano, my illusions of aging rocker has-beens vanished, however. Here's a musician (just over 60 now) who's still full of spit and vinegar... and capable of more than a couple moving ballads.

As the second piece of the evening, "The Bitch is Back," began with the expletive flashing on the giant screen behind the stage, I deduced the production was striving to be a full-sensory experience. And it was. Some of the visual effects complemented the music -- "Rocket Man" was enhanced by the solar graphics -- but a lot of the evening brought to mind the worthy theatrical advice (also a good metaphor for life) as stated by my high school director: "Not every number can be a showstopper." I could have done without the dancing letters -- "E-L-T-O-N" -- during "Bennie and the Jets." The cascading red, white, and blue stars and stripes during "Philadelphia Freedom" felt like a chintzy post-9/11 montage, and I wondered how the Latvians would respond to this blatant display of Americana -- especially from a Brit. (Of course, freedom is still a present and relevant topic for Latvians.) The colorful, blinking squares during "Honky Cat" reminded me of an over-blown set from Rowan and Martin's Laugh-In (minus the dancing girls), but Inga was enthralled. "Ohh," she uttered, pointer fingers extended and arms moving in her seat.

Even some of the slower numbers were treated in some way. The band exited the stage prior to "Candle in the Wind" and I thought, finally, just the voice and the piano. But the purity of the moment was short-lived, as canned strings coming from the keyboard joined the music on the second verse. "Sacrifice," Elton's 1990 hit that earned him his first Number One in the UK, garnered the most enthusiastic initial response from the crowd. This surprised me; while the tune is memorable, it seems to be one of his more straight-forward if not milktoast compositions. Could it be that for a lot of the audience this was the first Elton John single they were exposed to? The crumbling of Soviet rule in late 1989, early 1990 also ushered in hitherto unlawful products -- music from the West included.
Another song that received a very warm reception was "Sorry Seems to be the Hardest Word." Curious. However, from my more-than-usual exposure to VH1 in Latvia (it's one of two English channels on my TV), I have learned that Elton recently loaned his song (and piano and vocals) to the latest in a long line of slick and shiny boy bands -- this one British -- which took the song to the top of the charts.

The best moments of the night came when the lights and graphics were not so spastic and the music became the sole focus. "Daniel" was expressive, the notes of "Tiny Dancer" danced right off the keyboard, and "I Guess That's Why They Call It the Blues" was given a thick but well-executed bluesy treatment. "Crocodile Rock," in spite of the enormous animated singing crocodile, was just plain fun. The audience more than covered the looping falsetto, "La-la-la-la-la-la..." (After all, Latvia is penned as the "Land That Sings.") In spite of the at-times heavy-handed auxiliary dog and pony show, the songs comprised the essence of the evening. Elton did very little speaking (would he do more in a country where English is the native tongue?) and only once gave a stab at humor. While introducing his bandmates, he introduced the male keyboard player as the "President of the Lesbian Stamp Collectors of California." I chuckled... but I was the only one in my neck of the arena.

Elton John more than satisfied his attentive audience. Toward the start, he promised to play many old favorites along with a few new numbers. After all, he is promoting a new album. But the majority of the tunes were pulled from his well-established, impressive canon. For an encore, Elton reappeared to play "Don't Let the Sun Go Down On Me" which was redolent and powerful (although Steve and John from First Prez could have played the horns so much better than the keyboard). My appetite was satisfied when Elton announced he'd like to dedicate the last song to us, his "loving" audience: "Your Song." With the first words of "It's a little bit funny, this feeling inside...," for the first time that evening, I had the feeling that I was connecting to the music on some higher level.

The evening brought to mind the always-attractive lure (if not pressure) of "doing a new thing." What do you do, when you're Elton John and you have this new tune you're pretty pleased with, but all the audience wants from you is "Crocodile Rock" for the millionth time? I guess you add lights and video. Our universe may be expanding, yet, while the world itself is shrinking, it is not becoming so small so soon as our corporate attention spans. Call it the music video effect: we want to enjoy seeing our music just as much or more so than we want to enjoy hearing it. Image prevails as king.

Amidst the copious bells and whistles of last night's concert, I kept mentally retreating back to the Vienna Opera House where I heard Randy Newman play. The seats there were the worst seats I've ever had at a concert. The Vienna Opera house, old and beautiful as it is, though many-storied, the different levels are not staggered. From my seat next to the ceiling, I saw a quarter of the piano. There were no screens. I went into that concert knowing only a handful of songs, so each became a new and cherished gem. I sat next to the people I love most. So, many different factors contributed, I'm sure, to this most memorable experience, but I have never been so moved by one voice and the lonely fullness of a solitary piano. This reassures me that the illusions and recollections evoked within a human mind are one thousand times more powerful and perfect than any induced by technology-driven stimuli. Music is enough. I concur with what I consider to be Elton's crowning lyric: "My gift is my song, and this one's for you."

"Teem, this night for me was very philosophical," Inga told me as we waded through the sea of people. Turns out, Inga received her first Elton John record in 1974. Her mother's cousin, who had migrated to Australia in the wake of communism, sent the record to Inga, secretly. There were other records, too -- Zappa, Miles Davis, Beatles -- and then there were plenty that were confiscated and never arrived.

"To think so many years later I see Elton John here in Riga... ahh." Inga was out of words. I haven't seen life as she has, but I am seeing my own life with new eyes. And listening with new ears.

Yours,
Tim

Thursday, September 13, 2007

About Alice



Dear Friends,


My grandmother, Alice, was born on September 13, 1928.


She's the one who drove a white, Mustang convertible too fast. To keep her curly brown hair from blowing too much in the wind, she usually wore a sun visor. On summer evenings Grandma loved to drive her car with the top down and the windows up, and only when my brother and I asked, would she turn on the heat.


Grandma, on the other hand, was almost always hot. I think Grandma liked to sweat -- she was a hard worker, but the consequence was that she was always thirsty. "I'm dry as a bone, hon!" she would say. Nothing refreshed Grandma like a glass of water. Go heavy on the ice.


She's the one who took me hunting for turtles at Nichols Park just before my eighth birthday. We didn't find a single one, but Grandma told me a fantastic story about the giant snapping turtle living in their basement. Even the turtle in her story required water.


As did the flowers in her backyard, where Grandma spent the majority of her time. "Gardening is good therapy," she was known to say. Though she was an ardent churchgoer, her religion was simple and very tied to the earth... and making it look lovely. Her home was a clipping from Better Homes and Gardens. She was Martha Stewart before Martha Stewart.


No one did holidays like Grandma. Christmastime was utterly magical. Easter brought about the annual Egg Coloring with the grandsons. "Oh, hon, that is the ugliest egg I've ever seen! But, keep going!" she'd bellow, dangling one of our creations. Of course, to her grandsons, that meant, "You are the most artistic and beloved child on this earth." So, we kept going.


Grandma loved to laugh. Grandma laughed until tears streamed down her cheeks. Hers was a real laugh. I mean, she'd lose her breath. And so would I. "I've never laughed so hard in all my life!" she'd exclaim. I couldn't count the number of times I heard her say that.


Grandma had little tolerance for sour pusses and spoiled sports. If she couldn't bring out the life in you, then she assumed no one could. You were a lost cause.


Any sour mood of mine was immediately turned upside down when I saw Grandma. There's something about being tackled or having your cheeks pinched and hearing the words, "Get over here and give Grandma some sugar, hon!" that made it impossible not to smile.


She's the one who lost her cool, though, when she was heckled by an overbearing usher at the Sangamon Auditorium where she and Grandpa had taken us to see a musical. Having had enough and sensing she'd been treated unjustly, Grandma wheeled on the unsuspecting woman, "What is your name?! I'm going to report you!" Walking back to the car afterwards, I asked Grandma if she was really going to report the woman. "Oh, hon," she said, pulling me close. "I couldn't even see her name because I didn't have my glasses on!" She roared. I puffed out my chest. Yes, world, this woman is my grandma!


Grandma worked for years in the Illinois College Bookstore. Everyone on campus knew Alice. I know this because people still tell me. They tell me they loved her. Big football players would open up to her, spill their guts and cry. Girls referred to her as their college mother. The biggest thrill of my life was to help run the cash register or bag books for students or see the many people who'd come in just to talk to Grandma. Grandma really listened to people, but she never left them where they were. She inspired them.


When I was a freshman at IC, Grandma and Grandpa came over for a visit one night. They came up to my room and met my roommate for the first time. "What's your name, hon?" Grandma asked him. When he told her, she literally pushed him down on his bed and chortled. Soon, all of us in the little room were laughing and could not have told you why.


There was something about Alice.


Grandma met my first girlfriend, as well, that first year of college. Grandma and I were following the young lady up the steps of the chapel when Grandma bumped me, pointed directly at the girl's posterior, and gave me two thumbs up and a wink.


Some years later, a friend put it well when he said, "You're grandmother was all Chipman... but with spice."


When I was in college, I learned that Grandma and her friend and colleague had been jokingly referring to each other for years as "ol' witch" and "big witch," respectively. The names were playful terms of endearment. Her friend even went so far as to make a T-shirt for Grandma with the title printed on the front of it. I only saw Grandma wear it once.


Laughter and humor were her medicines, though she was rarely ill. "If you've got your health and family, you've got everything," she would say. Family may always endure, but health is a passing note.


Grandma was diagnosed with cancer sometime in the early part of my junior year of college. We cried when first we spoke about it over the phone. Her stubborn sense of humor still in tact, Grandma vowed to fight it. And with Grandpa's abundant assistance, she did.


"'The worst thing cancer can do is rob you of your identity,'" Calvin Trillin recalls his wife saying, a different Alice who also battled cancer. "Her identity included engagement and optimism and enthusiasm." Precisely.


I was in Japan in June, 2000. When I landed back in the States, I spoke to Grandma on the phone. She sounded enough like Grandma, though I knew she was suffering. When I saw her the next day, she was transformed. A baby bird. Bald. Fingernails still strong. And painted red. I held her hands. We prayed. And, when she turned in bed, I could make out the small letters on the white T-shirt she was wearing. There, in red ink, were the tiny words, "ol' witch."


Somehow, Grandma had managed the last laugh.


Alice had become the rabbit hole.


Death, swallowed up in victory.


*********


When I arrived in Riga last month, I immediately thought of Grandma. My furnished apartment was nice, but it needed, oh, a touch of something. I recalled Grandma calling me early one morning after I had moved in to my first college apartment, "Timmer, I couldn't sleep last night thinking about how you could arrange your furniture!"


What would Alice do? I pondered.


And what would Alice say about me traveling so far away to teach for a year? I suppose it's risky business trying to form conjectures. Memories are blessedly fluid. What were once clear-as-day pastoral snapshots in time blend and blur into Monets. So, we are left with colors. Impressions. An etching or two, if we're lucky.


I am holding close to the words Grandma wrote me before embarking on a Spring Break trip to New York City some years ago: "Tim, We love you very much! Have a wonderful time!!" Sage advice from a very colorful lady who defined the meaning of "wonderful time."


There's an elderly woman who dances on one of the sidewalks in the Old Town of Riga. Like any big city, Riga has its share of beggars, most of whom simply sit and hold out a cup. Not this gal. She boogies. She does not remind me of Grandma. Just guessing, but if Grandma would have seen her, the words "crazy kook" may have come out. She might have watched her, for a moment, shaking her head and smiling in awe.


On the other hand, Grandma was a dancer, too. Others walk through life. Grandma ran. Others talk. Grandma laughed. Others stand. Grandma danced. And, yes, she might have occasionally stepped on some toes.


"Let us sing alleluia here on earth, while we still live in anxiety, so that we may sing it one day in heaven in full security... You should sing as wayfarers do -- sing, but continue your journey... Sing then, but keep going."


St. Augustine had it right.


Grandma might have added, "And don't forget to smile."


Love,
Tim

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Legend of Tureida Rose

Dear Friends,

Saturday afternoon I got a call from Elizabete, daughter of Amanda, whom I met at church. While I had not met Elizabete, I knew from talking with Amanda that she was about my age and had a twin sister, Beatrice. Over the phone, Elizabete informed me that the three of them -- mother and daughters -- were out on a ride and were wondering if I'd like to go for a tea. I responded affirmatively, and we set a time to meet.

When the ladies picked me up, they had reconsidered plans and wanted to take me to Sigulda, a city east of Riga that I had heard of many times -- it's one of the more scenic areas in Latvia -- but had not yet visited. So, we were off to see Sigulda!

"Countree road... Take me home... to a place... I belong..." Elizabete, a soprano, sang solo in the car. "West Virgeenya... Country mama... Take me home..."

The ladies proved to be engaging company, and I was touched by their hospitality. Beatrice, the driver, is still in the beginning stages of learning to drive. I could sense the tension in the air when the ladies bantered (in Latvian, of course) about Beatrice's driving. I held on and pretended not to notice.

Once in Sigulda we stopped for dinner and drove on to an amusement course of sorts where the girls and I took a ski lift up a hill and zoomed down it on toboggan-like carts on a track. (Not dissimilar from the Alpine Slide in Wyoming.)

"Teem, did you enjoy the motion?" inquired Elizabete enthusiastically, back in the car.

My brain: "Well, quite frankly, it was a needless, jarring jolt to my senses that frightened me half to death."
My mouth: "Oh, yea. What a great, after-dinner thrill!"

Elizabete released an aberrant howl of laughter as if I were Johnny Carson in the backseat.

The anticipated highlight of the day's journey was seeing the famed Gūtmaņis Cave or Sandstone Cave somewhere on the skirts of Sigulda. It's the largest cave in Latvia and contains carven graffiti from the last four or five centuries. Twain would have a heyday.

"Teem, do you like natural places?" inquired Elizabete.

"Yes, I really do enjoy being in nature," I replied.

"Ohhh," she cooed.

You see, Elizabete had a story to tell. And, as this slow writer remembers it, this was approximately the beginning.

"Teem, there is ancient story about this cave."

"Oh?"

"Um, yes! There was a maiden. Her name was Tureida Rose."

"Lida Rose?"

"Tureida."

"Treeda?"

"Turr-."

"Turr-."

"-eye-duh!"

"-eye-duh! Trureidiah!"

"Close enough."

"She was very beautiful, see. But her condition was such that she saw bad luck in life."

"Oh. Okay."

"So, she had grown bigger playing in cave as child. And when she was woman, she fell in love with gardener."
"Those gardeners, I tell you!"

"Yes, I tell you. He was not rich man, but he loved Tureida Rose."

"Uh-huh. A good man."

"One day, a bad man come along and wrote letter like gardener and gave to Tureida. He says to meet at the cave."
"Ohh."

"In the cave he try to... do bad thing."

"Really?"

"He tried to thief her virgin."

"He... um... ?"

"He was very bad and--"

"He tried to sleep with her, okay, Teem?" that, coming from sister Beatrice, who up until this point had been a mild bystander.

"Ahh, yes, yes. Okay, so."

"Well, she wrapped scarf by her neck and say, 'This scarf makes me invisible. You pick up and try with your sword.'"

"Oh, no. That doesn't sound good."

"So the mean man picked up his sword and swung and her head fell off into the sand."

"Right here?" I shuffled my feet.

"Yes."

"Why did he do that?"

"She would rather be dead than be with him."

"Oh, what a story! Thanks for telling me... What about the gardener?"

"He still maybe plants roses at the castle and dreams of Tureida Rose."

And while I cannot claim to have dreamt of the lovely, star-crossed Tureida Rose that night, I tell you this: I went to bed praising God for the kindness of strangers and the steadfast gift of stories shared.

Yours,
Tim

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Breakfast of Champions


Dear Friends,

To the right, my early contribution to the exquisite Latvian culinary lexicon:

The carton was paper.

The picture was of a cow.

I found it in the refrigerator aisle.

How was I supposed to know I wasn't buying milk?

You know what they say, "When life gives you yogurt, make cereal!"

I've been working on an ad campaign:

Hey Kids,

Feelin' sleepy?

-Yeah.

Don't wanna get outta bed?

-No.

It's time you trade in the Mourning Grumps for the Morning Lumps!

Try Latvian cow curds on your next bowl of Frosted Flakes!

-Yay!!

It'll be GRRRRREAT!


Yours,
Tim

P.S. By the way, "piens" means "milk."

Saturday, September 8, 2007

Impossible is Nothing

Dear Friends,

The sunlight streaming through my bedroom window this morning was just enough light to inspire me to put on my running shorts, my Passavant 10K shirt, and lace up my Nikes in preparation for a morning run. In Jacksonville, running had been a staple and a favorite pastime. The last two weeks in Riga, my running shoes haven't seen the light of day. It's not for lack of time that I haven't run; frankly, the morning sit-ups and stretches, compounded by lots of walking, have felt to be more than enough exercise.

As I set out on my run, my body felt recovered from a late night of dancing and socializing in Riga's Old Town. Some of you read the Washington Post article published this summer, entitled "Riga: The Curtain Rises," that coined the city as "Europe's newest party spot." Having dabbled in the nightlife offerings of Madrid, Barcelona, and Prague, in recent years, what I experienced last night in Riga, in terms of night activity, indeed registers on the ranks of Places with Happening Nightlife though on a smaller scale. (The population of Riga is just over 700,000.)

At 9:00 last night, I met a colleague's daughter, her boyfriend and work friend at the Freedom Monument (pictured above), a common meeting place and marker between the city center where I live and work and the Old Town just beyond. We began our evening at a place called "Cuba" across from the Riga Dome Cathedral, where we enjoyed a drink on the outdoor veranda. After a warm day, the temperatures had dropped in the evening and the air was chilly. Blankets provided by the establishment proved to be welcome additions to the sweaters and jeans we were wearing.

If I had to guess, I'd say the majority of patrons at "Cuba" were local. Or at least they blended in. (Ironically, isn't that what we tourists always yearn for? "Take me somewhere where the natives play! Get me off the beaten, touristy path!") Walking to the club, we passed several raucous parties -- mostly male (go figure), mostly British (by the sound of the songs they were singing), definitely intoxicated.

"Eh, all these stag parties, all the time," one fellow in my troupe noted with chagrin.

Riga may well be coming Europe's newest party place -- the relatively cheap prices for bawdy entertainment and food and drink lure hoards of European bachelor parties whose participants, like overgrown children in pointed party hats, parade ostentatiously through the streets wearing outlandish costumes or brightly colored shirts bearing the emblems of their beloved sports teams -- but the name, and the reality, come with a cost.

The Old Town of Riga, especially, is hopelessly charming. Walking through the winding, narrow streets in the daytime, you can almost hear the collected histories whispering. But, last night, crossing into the Old Town, just past McDonalds, I turned into George Bailey, in his stupor, jointly mesmerized and sickened by the flashing lights and disco music doing its best to persuade people into the dens of dancing and debauchery.

What had become of my lovely, quaint Bedford Falls? I wondered, naively assuming ownership in the condition of my adopted hometown.

One of my comrades had an idea to combat the lewd behavior of the city's macho visitors. "I know, let's go to London and demolish their city! Show 'em what it's like!"

"Yea," responded his buddy. "But the British women -- ech!" He stuck out his tongue in offense.

The issue of the resounding nightlife in Riga seems to me to be one key to a glimpse of the city's present condition. An inevitable growing pang, perhaps. Touting Riga as a worthwhile tourist destination is a healthy thing for the city, and as a tourist, I can vouch: this is a great place to see! Economically, visitors of all kinds are a boon to the city. But, with visitors, comes the curse and threat of impending loss of authenticity, loss of essence, and loss of control.

Our band of night owls moved on to another establishment after a while, whose name I can't recall, but the atmosphere inside was commendable. Good lighting, good drinks, no smoke, good crowd, and a pulsing dance floor. (I especially enjoyed moving to Us3's jazzy "Cantaloop" and MC Hammer's magnum opus "U Can't Touch This." Ah, some songs will live on in infamy on both sides of the Atlantic.) I was thrilled to be in the company of young professional people... witty and funny and who weren't afraid to do the running man. The night was a thrill.

I recalled the music and the conversation today as I ran through a couple of the parks not far from my school. In four of the city's central parks, an Adidas sponsored campaign, painted the company's ubiquitous three white lines onto the wide sidewalks as a means to offer folks a route to jog. Each park hosts a sign that shows the courses, along with Adidas' symbol, some words in Latvian and in English, the phrase, "Impossible is Nothing," a pithy maxim inspiring us to get out, run, and get fit! If anything, it was a new, maybe unintentional twist, on the more common English phrase, "Nothing is Impossible."

In the two weeks I've been here, I've seen only two people intentionally running. In other words, by their dress and dripping sweat, I knew they were not simply trying to catch the tram. Today, I was certainly the only one utilizing the three white-lined courses in the parks flanking the Freedom Monument, which was erected between the World Wars as a symbol to Latvia's freedom, at last. But the freedom which it represented was not to be long-lived, as the country came under Soviet occupation and remained that way for fifty years or so.
Before leaving Jacksonville, a friend who had visited Riga this year told me that for years the Freedom Monument was nicknamed the Travel Agency, because any Latvian that was caught visiting (let alone laying flowers at) the Freedom Monument could certainly expect a free trip to Siberia. One source expressed surprise that the Soviets didn't remove the monument, or Milda, as "she" has come to be known. Perhaps the destined wrath of the local people was enough to stop them from attempting an extraction.

Slowing down to a walk, I passed several granite monuments in one of the parks, bearing the names of those (few) people who died fighting for Latvia's independence in the early nineties. I recalled what one acquaintance told me about the five Soviet rules that Latvians were obliged to follow up until that time: 1. Don't think. 2. If you think, don't speak. 3. If you speak, don't write. 4. If you write, don't sign your name. 5. If you sign your name, don't be surprised.

The Soviet past is well-remembered and oft-discussed. (For example, people my age can clearly remember growing up in those days.) I've already gathered many stories and observations and anecdotes about those times, yet I know I only conceptualize the tip of the iceberg. The country is free, now, yes. But fledgling. Young, in a sense, even in its old age. Some would gladly go back to the times when you knew who you were, you knew your limitations, you knew there would be food and free medicine and medical care. You knew so much for certain, even as you knew you couldn't go anywhere, physically and metaphorically.

As I sat basking in the few moments of direct sunlight there in the park, catching my breath and stretching, I pondered my scraps of limited observations about the beauties and the incongruous kinks in this place where I've gladly landed. Lines from the poet Rumi came to mind: Keep going, though there's no where to get to. Don't try to see through the distances. We don't know where we are going or where we will end up, any of us, but considering freedom and the steps so many have taken toward freedom, I felt the warming sensation that probably, there is somewhere to get to.

I stood up on my feet and ran home.


Yours,
Tim

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Lost in Translation

Dear Friends,

A week ago Friday, I went along on the teacher excursion into the countryside and villages west of Riga. In the small town of Sabile, we stopped to admire the rolling geography and crumbling architecture, in addition to the small vineyards that are maintained in the vicinity. Sabile, located on the 57th line of latitude, is the northern-most location of any vineyard in the world. File that away, purveyors of random facts, for your next game of Trivial Pursuit!

Now, many of the teachers were looking to buy some of the local wine. As we popped in and out of the small shops, however, no wine was to be found. (Off season perhaps?) Just as the group was about to board the chartered bus, I noticed a small fleet of middle-aged, female teachers ambling away from the bus, steadily moving along the narrow sidewalk.

Curious about where they were going, and assuming someone had found the wine and the others were merely following to make their last-minute purchases, I turned to the woman nearest me. An older lady who works somewhere in the school, I think.

"Where are they going?" I asked. "Did they find the wine?"

"Neh, neh, neh...," she bellowed, flailing her arm in the direction the herd was traveling. "Poopin! Poopin!"

Beguiled, and perplexed, I stepped onto the bus and took my seat. Minutes later, the ladies returned. Though they carried no bags, they chirped merrily among themselves.

Best,
Tim

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

First Story

Dear Friends,

The temperature has warmed in Riga, and the puddles dotting the cobble stoned streets have almost completely evaporated. The sunshine seems to provide the perfect setting for All Things Back to School. In his prayer on Sunday, the pastoral assistant prayed for the beginning of school, specifically for ensuing traffic jams, the many schools still lacking sufficient faculty, and most especially for the "hundreds to thousands" of children who will not be entering classrooms this fall. Issues of truancy and compulsory schooling are something I will have to look into.
But I can tell you that the students of State No. 1 have enthusiastically reentered the realm of wooden desks and chalk boards, due dates and decimals, lectures and lunch recesses. Going into the school year and new school system, the macro question forefront in my mind has been How different will these students be from the American ones I've known? The response, Not very.

All of the usual overarching, stereotypical types of students can be found in this school as in any other. For example, in one class today, three athletic boys, handsome and winsome and outspoken, sat together in the back of the classroom, and another boy, with long hair, wearing black pants and a black turtleneck sweater, sat alone in the front -- completely opposite of them. The athletic boys warmed to me quite easily, while the boy in front, when I asked him about his summer retorted, "Boring as hell." He wasn't being defiant, just unique... or something like that. Same applied to the girls. The prettier ones tended to sit together, while ones not so style-conscious (and maybe or maybe not more academically minded) sat toward the front.

Ah, I tire of speaking in generalities. I don't mean to pigeonhole these students, but only having first impressions with which to work, I simply mean to say that what I've seen in American classrooms, in terms of divisions and cliques and unspoken boundaries, I've already seen here in Latvia. Teachers, you know what I mean.

I've been giving the same basic spiel to each of my classes, and again teachers you'll understand when I say that, after eight times of delivering this introductory lesson, or "first story" as my Latvian colleagues say, I've polished the routine into a smooth and effective product. I mean, I could present this one for CPDUs galore!

I begin the story with different forms of greetings: the Latvian "Labdien" to the Russian "Приветствовать" to the German "Willkommen" then onto the American ones. It's great hearing the students repeat with me the enthusiastic "Alo-HAH!" or the slurred and swaggering, "Howdy Y'all," delivering their best cowboy impersonations.

I tell them a bit about myself, beginning with what to call me. Typically, Latvian students just say "teacher" when they want the teacher's attention, but using first names is also common practice. So, I introduce myself as "Timothy" but tell them to call me "Tim" or the Latvian version, "Tims". I tell them that if my grandmother were to walk in the room -- and wouldn't we all be surprised! -- that she may call me "Timmy Boy". I also suggest to the students that they may like to refer to me as "Professor," "Doctor," or "President," whatever makes them feel comfortable. (The students seem to like the "Chipman jokes," or else they're just really, really nice.)

I talk a bit about Jacksonville, about how I ended up in Riga, about Chicago (which apparently is home to the most Latvians in the world second only to Latvia itself) and Springfield -- which, so far, in every class has triggered a gleeful rumbling of recognition. "The Simpsons" reign ubiquitous. I clarify with my students that in spite of what they may hear, the Simpsons do indeed dwell in Illinois and that Bart is a personal confidante of mine. (Yikes, I know so very little about the Simpsons, perhaps I'm doing our fine state and myself a disservice by claiming them.)

Using the Koosh Ball (thanks Ken), I practice saying each of their names and ask them something about themselves. The names present a challenge -- the jots and tittles and other marks are legion -- but nearly each name has a very clear English counterpart. Some students have immediately okay'd me calling them by the English version of their name, though I hate to do that. The Simpsons may have already invaded their turf, but I'm going to delay the infliction of my Americanness upon them until I am absolutely resolved to surrender! As one colleague and friend put it, "In Latvian, we're going to pronounce every letter and sound we see. We're very phonetic." So, if the word is "tired," it will be pronounced (to my ear) "tee-er-ed". In America, we're looking to wring two syllables out of the darned word.

During my first story, I touch briefly on the four little rules that have become the basis of my classroom management, thanks to Turner Junior High, "Respect time, property, others, and yourself." With a couple classes, first impressions inform me that issues of respect among the students and their peers will be something to watch, but the majority of classes already exude the essence of Aretha's anthem.

Finally, I share five quotes about language with the students. One of the quotes that generates the most response from the students is this one by Frederick Fellini, "A different language is a different way of life." I tell the students how impressed by their language skills and sets I already am; most of them speak upwards of three languages and seamlessly shift gears between them.

Last weekend, Andris, his wife, Alona, and I were talking about this topic over dinner. Andris noted that he uses Latvian with his friends, English with his Embassy colleagues, and Russian at home with Alona, whose family is Russian. Marveling, I said, "You know, Americans are just so..." I was planning to say something like "lazy" or "disinterested" or "spoiled," but I paused. Both Andris and Alona simultaneously filled in my gap with "happy." Are Americans truly happier speaking one language? Does language, at the end of the day, have any real connection to happiness? Is life simpler and more blissful being monolithic? Evocative thoughts such as these accompany me on my small journeys here and yon along with the small sense of guilt I carry as an interloper in a land where I expect, nay, anticipate, the residents to speak my language.

I end the class session by distributing small papers and asking students for some information about themselves. There are five questions on the questionnaire, but the most intriguing for them and for me so far has been the last one where they are asked to ask me a question.

"What is your favorite thing about Latvia?"
"Why did you decide to leave the USA, because I'm sure you have a lot of friends there?"
"Are you a Christian?"
"Have you been to the Hardrock Cafe in Rome?"

And my personal favorite, "Are you evil?" followed by an ominous looking emoticon etching. If I had to bet, I'd say that one's probably from the kid in the front wearing all black. I mean, not that there's anything wrong with that...

Some students have left comments on the backs of these papers. One girl complimented my "clever and witty" lesson. One student hoped that my I would stay this "smiley" all year and that it was not just a show for the first day. Several have lingered after class to check clarification about something I said or to say thanks for the lesson (!!!) or tell me they look forward to class next week. Many just seem to like the sound of "see ya" rolling off their lips.

These kids have been selected as the most promising students in the country, and they know it. Yet, based on the first few days, I'd say their confidence is grounded in ambition, drive and sheer curiosity, not narcissistic entitlement. Beyond their promising futures and pasts of achievement, they carry backpacks and pencil bags. They tease each other. They hang out in the hallways. They wear Garfield and Nike T-shirts. They are tall and short. They are teenagers.

At the end of the day, walking back in the gleaming sunlight, I visited the roving outdoor market near to my flat. ("Don't ever buy your fruits from a grocery when you have the market!" I'd been advised.) Delivering the goods to the kitchen, I opened the window as far as it'd go to hear the wafting strands of piano scales coming from someone's lesson somewhere in the old apartment building. The occasional bouts of piano music to my ears are a treat, and when I hear them, I can't help but be transported back to the days of my own growing-up, sitting quietly listening to my mother teach piano in the living room.

I realize my environment has always been one of learning. Listening to the piano, I remember the feeling of going to school to learn, not to teach. I remember the burden and promise of new concepts and ideas and words. I am quite sure, here in Latvia on the third day of school, that I'm the one learning the most. And, I'm hungry for knowledge. I suppose this is surely a good thing, basic survivalist instinct at its root. Did the move to Riga trigger a curiosity about life and living that has always resided within, or because something as ordinary as gathering food here is such an adventure, are my senses that much more heightened, spurring a peak in my capacity of awareness?

I think I'll save those answers for another night. You know, the more I write, the better and better that bottle of Merlot I picked up is looking. And, maybe, I'll find something good on TV. Do the Simpsons know Latvian?

Thanks for reading.

Love,
Tim

Monday, September 3, 2007

Looking Smart: Day One

Dear Friends,

School has officially begun in Latvia! Walking to meet a colleague for coffee before heading in to school early this morning, I was mesmerized by the plethora of young people strolling the streets (hand undoubtedly in parent's hand) dressed in pin-striped suits and carrying flowers. I had entered Lollipop Land -- with very, very professional looking munchkins. The first day of school in Latvia upholds these traditions, in fact: children dress up and bring flowers to their teachers. Even high school students.

And even teachers dress up. After arriving at school, dressed in my ever-faithful JC Penny black suit, several teachers greeted me by saying, "You look smart!"

Now, I could get used to hearing that. This last week or so I've considered my looks to fit much more appropriately under the file bearing the name, "I smile because I have no idea what's going on."

But that's not entirely true since I've been surrounded by willing translators, interpreters, and pokers. It seemed an elbow to my arm was just the ticket to get me to stand at the right time of recognition during this morning's 10th grade assembly.

Dressed in their finest, students arrived at school at the designated time for the official welcoming. Gathered in the grand room, the principal welcomed students with a few opening remarks and a poem. Two students emceed the presentation. The bulk of the half-hour program, however, consisted of musical entertainment. A young alumni men's quartet -- eh, let's just call them "Pazzions" -- regaled the audience of 10th graders and another young alum sang American pop songs accompanied by his guitar during the 12th grade opening ceremony. The entire audience sat as still and respectful as could be during all of this.

Sitting enjoying the music, I was reminded of what one of my colleagues told be after last week's faculty meeting. "So, Tim, as you can see Latvians are sentimental people -- they love singing, flowers, and poetry. And they love food!"

My people. I've found my people!

Following the assembly, students exited with their homeroom teachers -- the teacher who has or will accompany them through all three years of secondary school. While I did not see one of these sessions, I was told in these smaller homeroom clusters of thirty or so teachers cover school rules and policies.

This morning I also found out about my course load for the year. Class periods are forty minutes long. On Mondays, I'll teach six classes; Tuesdays, four; Wednesdays, four (starting at 12:05!); and Thursdays will be my heaviest days with eight classes. Fridays are free. Typically teachers only teach four days a week, but giving me Friday as my day off was a special treat for the Fulbrighter from the administration. Three-day weekends are very conducive for travel.

My understanding at this point is that I'll basically have three preps: 10th grade International Baccalaureate (writing and grammar) as well as 10th and 11th grade English conversation. The school operates much like a college campus, I'd say. Both teachers and students are free to come and go as they please -- as long as they're present for classes of course.

Teachers in Latvia are very busy people. Let me give you an idea: the average teacher salary (a seasoned teacher with a Master's degree) is 300 Lats per month. One Lat equals two dollars. The math is straightforward: a Latvian teacher is basically raking in $600 a month. Keep in mind, as well, that the teachers in my school live in or nearby the capital, Riga, which inherently is an expensive place to live! This is why most teachers have two jobs... probably two teaching jobs. For instance, I know several in the English department who also teach university courses, test prep classes, or adult English Language Learner classes in the evening.

(Quick aside: one teacher told me her husband, who owns a construction company, starts his employees off at 450 Lats a month. These workers have no degree beyond a high school diploma or equivalent and often come without a definite skillset.)

Conditions for teachers in Latvia are slowly changing. Raises have been given over the last two years, but at the same time, the number of classes teachers can teach in the state schools has been capped. Unlike schools in the States, teachers are actually paid per classes or hours they teach. The chatter I hear, as well as the frustration I feel, among the teachers is in many ways reminiscent of US teachers' responses to No Child Left Behind and other mandated but unfunded, disjointed governmental programs and policies.

Nevertheless, the spirit of dedication to education, and most notably, to students, among the teachers at State No. 1 is palpable and catching. Coming from Turner Junior High, I'm accustomed to the educator mindset that constantly seeks to answer the question, what is best for kids? Education, of course, means so much more than looking smart.

Yours,
Tim

Sunday, September 2, 2007

Entertaining Angels

Dear Friends,


"Continue to love each other like brothers, and remember always to welcome strangers, for by doing this, some people have entertained angels without knowing it." Hebrews 13:1


Thus began the Epistle reading of the selected scripture at this morning's worship. As I sat down in the pew fifteen minutes prior to the 11:00 beginning, I was both surprised and delighted to read those well-known words. (Other Michael W. Smith and/or Newsboys fans among you may be reminded, as I was, of a couple terrific songs whose themes center around the intriguing concept of "entertaining angels" unaware.) How relevant these words became for me today, since now I am the stranger!

The Church of St. Saviour in Riga is situated just off the banks of the Daugava River in Old Town. The setting is picturesque, and while the nineteenth century church structure itself pales in grandeur to the majestic domes and cathedrals in the neighborhood, the simpler allure of the building's features (colorful stained glass windows, very erect wooden benches) present an air of spiritual repose. Still, personally, I was sad to find no chicken perched on top of the steeple.

The walk to church this morning (some twenty minutes or so) was through some heavy drizzle, so my Sunday-best pants were fairly soaked by the time I reached the sanctuary. How interesting and familiar to watch the pre-worship events as I dried: a choir member checking a clanky key on the piano, the organist (named, Kristine -- must be something in that name) warming up on the organ, the pastoral assistant (sadly, not Nancy) setting communion, congregants (the few of them there were) convivially chatting. Being the only church to offer an English worship service, I suspected rightly that the crowd would largely (but not completely) be composed of expatriates.

At 11:00 the choir, mostly female, youthful, and dressed in white, entered the front of the sanctuary. You could imagine my surprise when the young man playing piano began with a few bluesy chords and the singers began vocalizing in a soulful gospel style! The sound was nearly identical to the beautiful strands of the Mt. Emory Baptist choir in Jacksonville, but here the group was all white (if not all blond) and Latvian. Their rendition of "Do Lord" was absolutely roving, complete with snaps, claps, and the virtuoso-pianist/director, Gunar's foot pounding on the wooden floor; it conjured happy memories of Youth Group. Ray Charles could have easily appeared and soloed with this amazing little ensemble. I was completely mystified... a Midwestern American country boy nodding his head to the beats of a Latvian Gospel choir singing in a British Anglican church in the heart of Riga. Can I get an Amen, someone?

After worship, I discovered the choir performs the first Sunday of every month but rehearses some three times a week. (If they'd have this squeaky tenor from Illinois, I'd be interested in joining.) Thankfully, though, the congregation assembles every week for worship. Plus, the church sponsors a soup kitchen on Saturdays that I plan to help with next week. Oh, but it gets better... I mean, if I were writing this story, I couldn't conceive it any better. Here are some brief profiles of the people I met:

-Christopher, a Nigerian expat who's been teaching Business English at the local university the last fifteen years. He gave me his card with a great little symbol of Africa and Latvia that reads, "AfroLat: United We Stand". Of course, Jagila, I enthusiastically told Christopher about you with the hopes that someday we could all meet! His home is in the southern part of Nigeria, some distance I guess from Jos.

-Dr. Juris Calitis, head pastor. Exuded excellence in every way. (Think I've found Latvia's equivalent to Dr. Kay!) Latvian-born, but seasoned through his work in the US, Canada, Caribbean, and Britain. To me, his accent sounded Scottish. Other than the church, his time and energy are invested in "Zvanniekia," a home for retarded children outside of the city. He spoke about the mission in his sermon... In visiting with Pastor I learned that this church, when it reopened after Latvian freedom in 1992, was designed to be an ecumenical home for both the Anglican and Lutheran churches. In the eleventh hour, however, the Lutheran church walked away from the table leaving the church solely in the hands of the Anglican church though it remains completely open to any and all who "profess Jesus Christ as Lord and Savior." And prefer their scripture English, with a dash of cream. Very hybrid. Very cool.

-Chris and Cindie, married in 1982, and currently teaching in an international school in Riga. Their other home is in Arizona. But, get this: Chris grew up in Chicago. When he asked me where I live and I told him Jacksonville, he said, "Oh, MacMurray College." I told him I'd never heard of the place but that my alma mater is the inimitable Illinois College. He asked me if I knew Rick Haffer who works for the R.O.E.... name does sound familiar to me. When he mentioned R.O.E., I asked him about Bob Nicolet and Stephen Breese. "Oh yea, Bob retired this year. I helped those guys move boxes this summer." Unbelievable! But, that's not even the best part. Get this: Chris and Cindie's last name is "Blessing".

-Amanda, a middle school teacher in Riga and mother of four girls. So kind. Introduced me around. Learned to speak English at this church when some personal crises (compounded by national crises) led her to the doors of St. Saviour in the early nineties. We walked out together and ended up spending the afternoon in each other's company... lunch, book shopping, walking around, and finally coffee. An amazing lady -- once a doctor of internal medicine who crossed over to the world of education after raising her daughters.

Pulling also from the Hebrews chapter, Pastor Juris based his sermon on gratitude, making the point that simply saying "thanks" can be a meaningless, hallow gesture if it is not felt. "But, how do you feel thankfulness?" he questioned. He noted, in English, "think" and "thank" are drawn from the same linguistic root. He said that a gift, from one person to another, is a communication, a connection. He asked us, this week, to offer God our expressions of thanks -- both thought and felt.

May his Angels watch over you this week.

Thanks be to God!

Love,
Tim