Tuesday, January 29, 2008

Confession

The only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it.
Resist it, and your soul grows sick with longing for the things it has forbidden to itself.
-Oscar Wilde


Dear Friends,

I did it. I have nothing to hide. It was a cold, damp evening and I was hungry. And TGI Fridays was right there on the corner... At approximately 7:00 this evening, I devoured a large Fridays Burger with bacon, lettuce, and American cheese. Fries on the side. Ketchup.

Um, if it's any consolation, the pint of beer I drank was locally brewed.

I ate the Fridays Burger. I confess it was I.

And it was heavenly. Thank God for Fridays.


Your penitential brother,
Tim

Note: Old Riga actually boasts of two Fridays restaurants. The Latvian version, Paldies Dievam Piektdiena ir Klat! -- recognize the word "God"? -- is much more fun than the American cookie-cut replica that leaves one feeling like he ought to be exiting into the bland-lands of Bloomington, not winding cobble-stoned streets of an ancient Hanseatic city.

Other than TGIF, the only other American chain "restaurant" in Riga is McDonald's. (In case you've never heard of it, it's the one that touts the golden arches as it's mascot. Devour enough Mc-e-Dee's and your own golden arches may not fit through the door.) In a recent magazine article, world-renowned Vincent's chef, the British-born Latvian, Martins Ritins was asked if he eats at McDonald's. His response was clear as cholesterol: "I try to stay upwind from them and I cross the street to the other side so that no one thinks I'm coming out of one of them."

At press time, this writer has conquered two Big Mac's over the course of his five months in Riga. Says he: "I really was just curious to see how the flavor compared to America. Call it 'intellectual curiosity' or 'comparative analysis.'"

And the second time?

"A theorizing practitioner always double-checks his work."

Thursday, January 24, 2008

Marching Up to Freedom Land

A march of dignitaries this past Sunday, a day to commemorate Barricades Day (1991).



Dear Friends,

I hate being put on the spot. A couple of months ago on my way to church I ran into a young fellow whom I had met two months prior at a speaking engagement in Riga. I had been asked to speak to a small contingency of young representatives from around the world about facilitating discussion among high school students. The charge facing this particular group was a noble one: to venture out into the country's high schools and approach the delicate topic of Latvian - Russian relations with the aim of building cultural bridges.

(It's worth mentioning nearly twenty years after Latvia's independence from Russian occupation, feelings between Latvians and ethnic Russians are not always cordial. Latvians are actually a minority in their own country's capital, where Russians constitute 43% of Riga's population. Also telling is the fact that Russia has yet to sign a treaty formally defining the border between the two nations.)


Filharmonijas laukums (or square) in December, still decked with a small Christmas market.

When I ran into Gerod in Filharmonijas laukums, just inside Old Riga, I was pleased that I recognized him and remembered his name. Living abroad has ushered so many new people into my life that I often find myself grasping at mnemonic straws when trying to recall names, a situation reminiscent of my first semester of college where every new acquaintance was a first-named entity. Memory aside, I was actually surprised sometime in second semester to learn that my peers actually had surnames. The variety of names one encounters in a foreign place only complicates the memory process. (How do you remember a name you can't pronounce?)

Gerod clearly remembered me and we shook hands warmly. After having introduced Gerod to my companion, he looked at me and said, "Ah, but Tim, I bet you don't remember where I'm from, do you?" I didn't. Why do people do this? This type of question is on the same low-life level as the universal "I bet you don't remember me, but I baby-sat your mother" statement often fielded in the dairy aisle of the grocery market or the unforgivable "Oh, I didn't know you were expecting! When is the baby due?" to the unsuspecting, un-expecting would-be mother.

I concealed my slight irritation and changed topics quickly: "Would you like to come to church with us, Gerod?"

The Eleventh Commandment: Thou shalt openly invite others to church, even if the invitation is saving you from social discomfort and/or momentary embarrassment.

After some deliberation, Gerod agreed and the now-larger band of three walked merrily on our way. Remembering the five individuals who comprised Gerod's group, I asked him if he had been doing his work in the classrooms alone or with a partner. "Alone?" he responded with an air of shock and pity, a philosophical glimmer in his eye. "No, not alone. By myself," he corrected. "One is never alone."

Oh, get off yourself! I thought, as I contemplated the semantics of "alone" versus "by myself." All I wanted was a little church, but here I was walking with Khalil Gibran's over-zealous nephew with stars in his eyes. I was not in the mood to be taught or toyed with.

But the bomb was yet to drop. We ascended the outside steps leading into the church's front yard. "So, Tim, how are your students handling their American brain-washing? How is your teaching?"

I wanted to drop-kick his ass. God as my witness. Sure as I was wearing my Sunday suit and shoes.

I fought back with humor, which really is the only way I know how to fight. (Our mutual friend, Lamar, once informed my brother and I that his nine-year-old niece could "school us" both with one hand tied behind her back.) "Well, Gerod, you know how it goes," I said. "Pretty good most days. Students get a little tired of the red, white, and blue watch dangling in front of their faces, though."

Gerod snirtled.

I think I may have discovered the way to increase interest and audience participation in worship: anger yourself before the Lord. Step into the sanctuary seething. I'm sure God loves a righteously angry child. All that emotion gives Him something to work with. I soaked up the service like a splenetic sponge. And afterwards, when Gerod gave me a few pointers on how I could have accentuated and punctuated my reading of the scripture "like this," I was able to smile and thank him for his suggestions.

I thought of Gerod this week as I presented my "Martin Luther King in Forty Minutes" lesson to my students in conversational English. I was pleased with this one. I opened the lesson with the history of race in America (1492-2008) in two minutes or less (students love timing the teacher) followed by a gem of a poem by Langston Hughes. "Are you free?" and so forth I asked the kids. I taught them a few bulleted key words and phrases (civil disobedience, Jim Crow laws, boycott) followed by the reading and analysis of a slice of King's "Dream." Class ended with the playing of "If I Had a Hammer" sung by Peter, Paul, and Mary, and Tim, and Students. From the computer screen, silent images of the March on Washington lit the room. Written on the board: "Who are your brothers and sisters?"

Teaching Civil Rights, talking Freedom and Liberty gives me the shivers. What pride I have in sharing with the students how I not only met but lunched with Coretta Scott King in 2000. Or the places I saw on the soul-altering, Illinois College spring break-away "Road to Freedom" trip through the American South in 2001. Or how Obama (you bet these kids know something of Barrack and Hillary) is my Illinois comrade. And what a hoot to open this trunk of American history -- nay, History of Freedom -- for my eager Latvian students!

I couldn't help but draw on the similarities. The Baltic states' road to independence in the early nineties has been dubbed The Singing Revolution. The movement was, by and large, non-violent. I hoped my students would tap into the common themes.

I've talked and taught Civil Rights this time of year every year, but this time around I viewed my position and my product differently. Call it self-awareness. Was Gerod right? Is a teacher a peddler merely pushing his wares like the optimistic amber jewelry merchants lining Valnu iela? The best teaching is passionate teaching, is it not? And passion is born of convictions and convictions come from experience and experience is, well, subjective! (And who is responsible for throwing the word subjective into the stack of dirty words piled in the corner of the classroom, anyway?) Write what you know, novice writers are always advised. Doesn't the same advice apply to teachers? No one has ever asked me to teach quantum physics. But there are other things I know. What can stop the brilliant exchange of energy between a charismatic teacher, his willing students, and a chunk of living, breathing context?

Forgive the stodgy, generic title; I approached this lesson under the auspices of "Universal Themes." I think the message -- or whatever you want to call it -- struck a chord.

Each class rustled and nodded when we read King's line about going to jail together. Anti-establishmentism: the ecumenical thread connecting youth worldwide.

One girl told me after class about her enthusiasm of someday seeing darker-skinned people move to and live in Riga. (A 2004 trip to London exposed her to people with skin colors she had never seen before.) When her father cautioned her that the people of other races who could come here would likely not prove to be productive citizens, she surmised that it's difficult to say just who will and who will not benefit a society.

Another student asked me if I knew the darker-skinned student at our school. "I'd like to get to know him, too," he told me.

I learned from another student that talk of producing an underground transportation system in Riga was tabled some years ago because of concern that the other-ethnic workers from neighboring countries would come to Latvia for purposes of construction -- and stay.

Recently, I read the one issue that most unites both Latvians and Russians is the nations' shared opinion that homosexuality should not be tolerated.

"Tim, are there still problems with people -- like different races and stuff -- getting along in the United States?" I was asked.

Pull up a chair, young friend.

Or, better yet, lace up your walking shoes. You never know who you're going to meet.



*****



Two outstanding books have lately expanded my sense of freedom and the hike that is often involved in achieving it. Latvian-Canadian Modris Ecksteins, University of Toronto professor and historian, juxtaposes the facts and fallacies of World War II with his own childhood recollections in the stirring Walking Since Daybreak. Ecksteins notes that his father, a Latvian Baptist preacher, just prior to imminent deportation from Latvia, couldn't help but find parallels between his country men's situation and Jesus' words recorded in the book of John: "You do not realize now what I am doing, but later you will understand." Ecksteins concedes there was much his father likely never understood.

Sandra Kalniete was born in Siberia to Latvian parents in 1952. Twice a month Kalniete's father had to register the family at a Soviet security agency, pained as he was to "give more slaves to the Soviet regime." Some years later, standing in Riga, Kalniete reflects on watching but not directly taking part in an early public demonstration protesting Soviet deportations:

I did not have enough courage to leave the silent crowd of sympathisers and cross the street while the Soviet militiamen and Chekists watched. I hate myself for it, but that's what I was like -- having soaked up the invisible fear of my deported family. It was precisely in these days at the Freedom Monument that my sense of freedom was reborn.

Drawing once again on the theme of the journey, the beat of the march to freedom, Kalniete titled her memoir With Dance Shoes in Siberian Snows.

Daina Eglitis lives a few blocks away from me off of Terbatas iela. The Fulbright professor from George Washington University was recently quoted in a New York Times piece. Her words: "In the Baltics, history is a ghost that still walks the streets in a very active way. It’s not just past, it’s present. But people have different readings on it.”

Sometimes it's hard to tell if history is behind us or beyond us, posing questions without easy answers, staring us straight in the face as we walk blindly toward it.

Yours,
Tim

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Stereotypes and Self-Made Neophytes

Russian Orthodox Catheral on a sunny winter's day ... not far from my school.

"If there was anything new, it was a simulation of something old."
- Orhan Pamuk, The Black Book, translation by Maureen Freely

"Was I the same when I got up this morning? I almost think I can remember feeling a little different. But if I'm not the same, the next question is 'Who in the world am I?'"
- Lewis Carroll, Alice in Wonderland

Dear Friends,

Everyone knows something about Americans.

These are some of the knowing questions I field regularly:

Why do Americans smile all the time?

Do Americans really believe they can make themselves happier?

Do Americans really mean it when they ask, 'How are you'?

Don't most Americans still believe in God?

And my personal favorite, Tim, is it true that all Americans are fat?

I've had ample time to hone my response to these questions which usually goes something like this: "Jesus Christ Lord Krishna, of course I don't care how you're doing. Do I look happy to you? Now, tell me how to get to the nearest McDonald's!" I turn and scuff off, frowning like an imperialistic Oscar the Grouch with clogged arteries, leaving a quivering Latvian in the dust.

Everyone knows something about Americans, and it's not their fault. "Where is Hollywood?" asks German sociologist Dieter Hassenplug. "Everywhere." Even off of my home turf here in Europe, it often seems like the natives have home-court advantage on two accounts.

Traveling through Poland on the choir tour last month, my fast friend Maris tapped me and, pointing out the bus window, said, "Hey Tim, look, it's Uncle Sam!" Maris is in seventh grade and speaks English more fluently than the majority of my high school students. Sure enough, there on a billboard outside of Warsaw was everyone's ubiquitous uncle, decked in clothes borrowed from Santa Claus's wardrobe, index finger pointing back at us. A shopping ad.

"Wow, Maris, I'm impressed! You must have had some terrific history teachers! Is that who taught you about Uncle Sam?"

"No," he replied flatly. "The Simpsons."

Mark my words: The downfall of English teachers will have nothing to do with apathy, burn-out, paperwork, low pay, or the apocalypse. When all of us former English teachers are sitting off somewhere grading each other's essays for the forty-seventh time, we'll have no one to thank for our present ink-stained status except Bart, Marge, and Homer. (Not the poet.)

I don't mind hearing my (what an audacious choice of pronouns, but you know what I mean) music in the stores and restaurants or seeing my movies at the cinema. And I can't help but secretly snicker every time I pass a porky European -- take heart, fellow Americans, Europeans are catching up to us at an alarming rate! -- and think, And they say we're fat!

What's curious to me is how little we -- how little I -- know about the rest of the world. Sure, Americans all have their ideas of Paris and the demeanor of French people and London and the queen. We know Japanese are tech-savvy and Indians often become successful doctors. But what about the rest of the globe? Where are our international professorial Jerry Springers and Oprah Winfreys?

And yet there's a super-sized amount of bliss in our ignorance, isn't there? One of my family members spoke for many of us when she started a conversation with me last summer. We were standing in the food line. "Tim, why the hell do you wanna go to La-ta-via?"

A few month's later at my grandfather's birthday party in July, I pulled over the globe and attempted to show my younger cousin where I would be living for the next year. Shamefully, my stalling finger took too long to land on the small Baltic country. "So, I'll be staying... um... right... here." And this was a month before I left!

This rather insignificant act triggered a deep-seeded fear that had been following me like a dark shadow. A week or so before departing, the shadow that I had been long trying to flood with man-made light got the best of me, and in a tearful quake of terror, I confided in a confidante, "What if the year is nothing but cold and dark? What if I'm all alone?" Honestly, I was afraid after having spent each year of my life signing my return address with the same five-digit zip code that apart from all familiarity -- with a new set of numbers -- I might not know who I am at all. Isn't the definition of "self" always defined by others? It's not what I think about me, but what you think and say about me that counts, right? On my better days, I was intrigued by the idea of finding myself (pardon the despicable cliche) like a spy from a detective novel. When feeling more vulnerable, especially in the presence of cherished friends and family, I was utterly terrified about discovering who has been lurking inside this skin of mine the last 28 years, shed of the titles, the family background, in short, the history that makes me me.

Stereotypes, of course, are not the racist, sexist, homophobic, xenophobic bits of evil that some folks would have us believe. Stereotypes always contain a kernel of truth from someone, somewhere, sometime, if irrelevant today. Stereotypes are instructive and help us define and assess our surroundings. The problems with stereotypes occur when they are left unexamined. Like the pop-up pieces on a carnival game, our stereotypes need to be bonked down again and again.

Many of the American stereotypes seem to fit me like a tailored suit, so I guess I rely on them to define me among strangers. Yes, I smile a lot. Yes, I believe in God. Do I really mean it when I ask you how you're doing? Well, yes and no... (Sometime I'll share the perfect response imparted by one of my wise colleagues.) Do I worry about being flabby? Yes.

That's why this week, after too many months of living a gloriously sedentary lifestyle, I joined a gym. For 33 Lats (think 60 bucks) a month, I can delve into the hearty array of fitness options available at Atletika, less than two blocks away from my flat. Yesterday was my first day back in the land of the calorie-counting. Oh, it felt great to be back! The facility is nice with everything you might expect: black padded floors, spirited orange and white walls, plenty of mirrors, and pulsing, spastic music meant to arouse the comatose to a new lease on life. My first observation, though, upon walking into the gym involved none of these things. Rather, my first thought was, "Wow, these are a bunch of good-looking people!" I caught my breath and adjusted my plain white T-shirt and aged pair of Adidas shorts, anything to unsettle the film of corn dust that had been cast upon me like a permanent farmer's tan.

I made my entrance and went to work. The view from the treadmills over looking the bustling corner of Barona and Martas ielas is invigoratingly beautiful. And as I trotted along, I found myself running in sync with the remix of Justin Timberlake's "Sexy Back" thumbing from the speakers. In the corner, I glanced at the progress of a tennis match in the Australian Open, the modern-day saints on screen dressed like the barbies and kens meandering around the sweaty sanctuary of fitness. I wondered if gyms, like churches, too often only attract those who look the part. Without the pious support of these buff stuffs parading around, would the gym cease to exist? Where are the fat sinners? Where are the ones who really could use a conversion?

As I walked out of the locker room an hour or so later, I was pleased to pass a pleasantly plump woman in spandex walking into the gym. She was proud and angelic, ready to flex her muscles or work down the waist.

"Must be American," I thought. I felt at home.

Yours,
Tim

Wednesday, January 16, 2008

Jokes On Me

Dear Friends,

What did the dog say when he sat on the sandpaper?

That's one of the jokes that came to mind last Thursday when my students invited me to play my own game. Before I give you the answer, let me throw you a bone and fill you in on how and where this dog's been philosophically sitting as of late.

Second semester is in full swing, and I've decided conversational English may be the best kind of English to teach. With no semblance of a syllabus, no curriculum, no heavy textbooks that often succeed at shackling feet rather than opening minds, I am standing at the helm of my class ship, charting the waters that lie ahead, rolling with the waves. And it feels good. This year I've come to remember and appreciate the definitions and utility of the words "standards" and "goals" in their purest forms, not as beastly words of burden shrouded in the dark cloak of bureaucratic schoolspeak but as vital concepts of purpose and value. To put it simply, my persistent goal this year has been to engage my students in conversation using the English language. I know standards are being met when mouths are moving, heads are nodding, and smiles are spreading across faces.

In so many ways, this year feels like swimming in deep water without trunks. Not much to hide behind, but once you get over the initial shock, such reckless abandon! And such freedom.

Of course self-exposure is jointly the teacher's most constant threat and greatest ally. It's a phenomenon that I'm pretty sure my friends who work outside of the realm of education may not understand. The contact, in fact the entire relationship, between a teacher and a student is originally constructed on a raw, involuntary basis. The student does not enter the classroom because he wants to, at first. He's been assigned. The same applies to the teacher who did not select the student to be there in the first place. (And oh, sometimes don't we wish we could?) The relationship is pre-arranged and under such circumstances, if there is to be accord, let alone enjoyment, both parties must agree to try to like each other. Only one thing is certain, and that is the number of days both teacher and student must share space.

Of course it behooves the teacher to create a space that is conducive to learning. Creating rules and carrying out procedures are certainly main components of the process but this teaching year has confirmed what I sensed years ago as a novice: the teacher must become the space.

"Fill the space!" my mentor advised me in my earliest days of teaching. He was right. And filling the space requires nothing short of full-frontal exposure. Day after day after day.

I'm aware that "conversational English" has an air of ease about it. True, in terms of time and grading, there's more of the first and less of the second. And still teaching conversational English to non-native speakers brings with it its own set of peculiarities. You can lead the kid to the classroom but you can't make him speak. Any teacher can copy and hand out worksheets and any student, with a speck of self-motivation, can sit and work through the problems. But, when it comes to speaking -- a form of communication without an eraser or delete option, a form so out-there and audible and therefore so emotionally-laden -- the climate control needs to be working impeccably.

(I want to note that it's precisely because of my students' former instructors who through drill, textbook, worksheet, and everything short of guillotine laid the foundations of English grammar and language that my students are able to engage in conversational English at this level at all. For many of them the unchained atmosphere of conversational English is a welcome reprieve from bookish English, but is there any other way to get to Point B than traveling -- arduous though the roads may be -- through Point A?)

Writing educator Rick Wormeli is a hero of mine. Through his research and experience, Wormeli has come to the conclusion that people learn better when they are emotionally connected to the material at hand. (In this regard, I've always felt blessed to be a language arts teacher. Must be difficult to make neutrons tug at students' heartstrings.) According to Wormeli's mantra, two of the most memorable emotions are fear and pleasure. Since most school's no longer support the pedagogical idea of corporeal punishment, scaring students is often out of the question. As I suspected, my Halloween-themed attempt at startling my students by reading an original ghost story by candlelight was met with more giggles than gasps, which nicely packaged the activity as a memorable, pleasurable experience for my students. Fear is a funny thing.

Humor sliced on chocolate (or any kind of food, really) is a powerful motivator and impetus of pleasure. I frequently serve both in my classroom. These last few days this dog has pulled out an old trick along with a big bag of M&Ms. Actually, because Latvia like much of Europe has not caught on to the American ideal of "supersization," I pulled out many mini-bags of M&Ms.

You probably know the drill: students sit in a circle, each takes five or six pieces of candy, each of which is color-coded. So, red M&Ms may stand for "childhood memories," and for each red piece a student has, she has to regale the others with a childhood memory. Strange how many childhood memories involve blood, vomit, and broken bones.

There were several categories, then, one for each color, and for yellow the attached instruction was "Tell a joke or describe a prank!"

This proved to be especially challenging for many students, illuminating the unstartling but oft-forgotten fact that humor is strongly tied to language. I recall seeing an Adam Sandler movie with a group of Japanese students some years ago. The students sat silent as statues throughout the majority of the film, except for one nondescript moment at the start of a scene when a passenger on an airplane bumps his knee on the attendant's cart being pushed down the aisle which caused the Japanese visitors to convulse with laughter. You'd of thought Steve Martin had entered the room dressed as a snout merchant. The rest of the English-speaking audience sat quietly dazed, wondering what in the world they had missed on the screen.

So, when some of my 10th graders asked me to tell a joke or two, I -- and here's that nudity thing again -- felt totally unprepared. I like to think of my sense of humor as erratic, spontaneous and situational. (Said the man to the woman on their first and final date.) While I seem to carry a stockpile of "Chipman Jokes" -- well-meaning but misdirected quips that hang on the pun side of the family joke tree -- I'm usually not prepared to tell a joke at the drop of a hat. I've been meaning to chew more Laffy Taffy.

But I couldn't let down my constituents.

"Um, okay," I said, speaking slowly and clearly, remembering my students were English Language Learners, "What do you call a sleeping cow?"

Their faces were fraught with expectancy. They were hanging on my every word. With adolescent eye brows raised, no one exhaled.

And no one spoke.

"A bulldozer!" I projected at last, waiting for the (at least) obligatory chortle.

And still, no response. Such sincerity. Such anticipation. Such well-meaning confusion. No clue.

"Well, you see, a bull is a male cow." I might have mooed at this point. "And when you are sleeping" -- hands to face, cocked head -- "you are dozing. Dozing and sleeping are synonyms."

Without averting her eyes from me, a girl in the back row yawned.

"And a bulldozer is large instrument -- but not a musical one... a large machine that, you know..."

"Dozes the earth?" one young scholar suggested.

"Not exactly," I replied. "It -- you know." Bulldozer sounds ensued as my hands pushed thin air. Evidence of Masters degree in Education at work, Ladies and Gentlemen.

The students smiled. "Another!" someone shouted.

"What did the dog say when he sat on the sandpaper?"


********

"Travel at its truest is thus an ironic experience," wrote Paul Fussel, "and the best travelers ... seem to be those able to hold two or three inconsistent ideas in their minds at the same time, or able to regard themselves as at once serious persons and clowns."

Serious clowns.

Not a bad paradigm for teachers.

Of course that sand on the bare bottom can sometimes be rough.

Which is precisely what the dog said who sat on the sandpaper. Ruff.

Yours,
Tim

Clarion Call: The author wholeheartedly welcomes and endorses the submission of jokes, puns, riddles or any other humorous fundiddles from his readership. After extensive psychometric screening and testing of jokes upon unsuspecting peers at cocktail parties and English-speaking passengers on tram-buses, the author will carefully insert selected jokes into his classroom instruction. See Goal XIV, Standards 28-79.

Twilight Zone? Maybe fear really is alive and well in my classroom.

(Student on the right has "future teacher" written all over him.)

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Epiphany

"Next Year"

Lyrics by jazz artist Jamie Cullum,
from his CD Twentysomething (2004)

Next Year
Things are gonna change
Gonna drink less beer
And start all over again
Gonna pull up my socks
Gonna clean my shower
Not gonna live by the clock
But get up at a decent hour
Gonna read more books
Gonna keep up with the news
Gonna learn how to cook
And spend less money on shoes
Pay my bills on time
File my mail away, everyday
Only drink the finest wine
And call my Gran every Sunday
Resolutions
Well, they come and go
Will I do any of these things?
The answer's probably no
But if there's one thing I must do
Despite my greatest fears
I'm gonna say to you
How I've felt all of these years
Next Year
Next Year
Next Year...

Dear Friends,

Happy New Year! Greetings from cold, cold Latvia. The days are dark so I've come to appreciate the spurts of sunlight, however meager. It didn't take long to learn that sunlight is only a cruel joke: when the sun is shining it only means it's too cold for snow, thus no clouds, thus sun. This is the weather I was warned about, I think: snow, blustery winds, and wily patches of ice disguised by darkness. Temperatures perfect for anyone suffering from a sore finger or toe or nose. A few minutes outdoors and you're pain will be completely eradicated! Numbed!

Wiped away just like the snow that is pushed into small pyramids along Brivibas iela by old women with stooped backs, clad in flannel skirts and flat shoes. Their woolen socks are pulled up mid-thigh. My, the winters they must have seen! Maybe after all of these years they're oblivious to the cold as they sweep the ashy snow with their brooms made of twigs and branches. I pass by them, darting like an irascible fox, from one Double Coffee to the next. And, though I am not nursing the bottle, I finally understand the furnace-like life-sustaining power of hot tea or coffee. I relate to the Macy's Santa Claus in Miracle on 34th Street, the one about to be ousted by the new, authentic Kris Kringle, who mutters through drunken breath slung on the back of his sleigh, "It's cold outside! A man's gotta do something to keep warm!" Brother, I feel your pain.

Happy New Year, and in spite of the bitter chill, some people are bracing the cold as warriors, as combatants. They whisk through the streets dressed as peculiar hybrid humans: part Sumo, part Eskimo, and in their haste, though frozen or nearly so, from time to time I hear polite exchanges. Words of cheer. Words of the season. "Laimigu Jauno Gadu!" they say. Happy New Year! Wanting to join in the festive spirit, I too have tried to pronounce these happy words but I fear my attempts to do so have only certified me as who I am: a tried and true Westerner, sputtering something vague about "guano" or "goo."

Today is January 6. Epiphany. A day in the Christian church commemorating several occasions, one of which is the visit of the Wise Men to Bethlehem. I shouldn't complain about the snow; I understand they traveled via camel. Epiphany doesn't always fall on a Sunday, but this year it does. Today is also Christmas according to the Orthodox faith tradition. And as I trudged home following an evening visit to the post office, the uninhibited bells ringing out from the Russian Orthodox cathedral, wild and reckless, like the music of a four-year-old left alone with a xylophone and two mallets, I considered that ubiquitous, seasonal question: what will I do differently this year? Don't know if it qualifies as an epiphany, but here's what I considered:
  • This year, I will embrace the cold. I shall see the snow not as an obstacle but as ornamentation. The breeze is not debilitating, it is instructive. It will remind me of that old blessing, something about having the "wind at your back." Realizing that my remarks bear no sway on the insistence of the weather and its patterns, I vow to only comment on the weather when I am at an absolute loss of words.
  • This year, I will refrain from starting any question with the words, "I don't know much about ________, but...?" If there's one thing I've learned from this experience abroad it's this: I know so little. So when I'm left to talk about something about which I know little, I'm going to fake it by phrasing my questions in a different light -- this will hone my conversational skills -- and then I'll study the subject (whatever it is) later when I'm back home.
  • This year, I will make big mistakes. Years ago teachers told me that mistakes are good because "we learn from them." And yet the unspoken message was exactly the opposite: the more mistakes, the lower the grade, the harsher the punishment. The more I learn about people whose stories are recorded in the Bible, the more I see that God is often showing himself to "mistaken" people. Just ask David. This goal goes not only for my personal life but for my teaching life as well. I carry this one into the classroom.
  • This year, I will learn to watch and enjoy at least one major sporting event on TV. Ha! Yeah right.
  • This year, I will relax about the way I look. Two years ago this January a well-meaning dermatologist informed me that my acne could last well into my thirties and that my hair -- she used those terrible words: "receding" and "hairline" -- may not be around to witness my clear skin. That's what you get for asking. I tell you, if it's not pimples, it's baldness or arthritis or a root canal, or, or, or... Blemishes and hair growth or loss are only signs of one miraculous thing: life! If we can't face what we see, we should follow the poet Nanao Sakaki's advice: To stay young, to save the world, break the mirror.
  • Gadu, es gribu Latviski macities. (Or something like that.) Correction:
    Sogad es gribu macities latviski.  (Paldies, Ruta!)
  • This year, I will widen the circle. This morning Pastor Calitis reminded us of why we were there in the church on such a cold, snowy morning: "Because Jesus loves you! But not just you!" Exclusivity is so last year. Inclusive is in.
  • This year I will honor my parents. A few days with them in Riga, walking beside them as son and adult, it occurred to me that the greatest thing they've ever given me is not my life, but their lives. And, to paraphrase Mark Twain, I was surprised about what all they've learned over the four months I've been gone.

Dad and Mom taking in the grandeur of the Dome Cathedral.

I pondered my resolution-like list as I undecorated my Christmas tree. For three weeks, the little thing had glowed from its perch in the deep window sill in my living room. Charlie Brown would have been proud of my small shrub: adorned with one string of white lights, a collection of small red balls purchased at Drogas on the corner, and a random assortment of ornaments including an angel from a student, a homemade sparkly tree from my goddaughter, some trinkets from friends back home, a traditional Latvian ornament made from amber, a paper angel I usurped from the sanctuary, some ginger bread hearts. Amazing what we accumulate when we're not really trying. Amazing what we're given. I packed each of these small treasures away into an old J. Crew shirt box then rightly wrestled that bristly old pine into a large plastic bag. The tree nearly won. I was fooled by its size. Needles falling to the floor like choreographed confetti. Sap and dust and blood flying overhead.
And you know the strangest thing? I noticed that little tree, purchased for two Lats at the market around the corner, was still growing. Chopped as it was, displaced from the Baltic wood or tree plantation where it had once been rooted, there were tiny green shoots extending from almost every branch. Reaching, it seemed, toward the drafty window behind it. Toward the light or semblance of it. Small, soft lime green growths, as delicate as the end of a small paint brush. Still fragrant. Still changing. Still.

Warm wishes to you, wherever you are this year, as you weather the changes that lie ahead!

Yours,
Tim

In the middle of the square in Old Tallinn, capital of Estonia, some four hours from Riga.

New Year's Eve... actually New Years morning, Raina blvd., Riga.